Gym to Crag: How to Transition to Outdoor Climbing in Spring
Interested in climbing outside after a winter in the gym? Here are the answers to your questions!
Safety First
What are the top three safety considerations that indoor climbers need to know before their first outdoor climbing experience?
You are not in a controlled environment, like you are in the gym. Weather and changing conditions happen fast!
Falls on crash pads are much more unpredictable than on gym flooring, and you need proper spotting and pad placement (for bouldering).
Make sure you know how to use all the gear you need for your session. You might need to set up your own anchors, place your own protection, use outdoor anchors that are different, protect yourself when setting up a top rope on an exposed area, etc.
Gear Essentials
What specific gear differences should climbers be aware of when moving from indoor to outdoor climbing, and what additional equipment is crucial for outdoor adventures?
Crash pads for bouldering and the use of spotters.
Ropes, belay devices, quickdraws, PASS (Personal Anchor System), appropriate climbing shoes for extended wear. You’ll also need climbing protection if traditional climbing, and of course… helmets.
Skill Translation
How do indoor climbing skills translate to outdoor environments? What are the most important techniques climbers need to adapt?
Climbing movement, efficiency, and mental awareness are learned indoors. These things become vital when climbing longer outdoor routes or problems where you need to maintain a calm head.
Belay communication and learning how to belay properly are practiced indoors, and used extensively outdoors.
Learning all the system and gear checks indoors helps you keep it consistent in an outdoor setting.
Training and becoming a stronger climber indoors makes you a better climber outdoors!
Beginner Challenges
What are the most common mistakes beginners make when transitioning from indoor to outdoor climbing, and how can they avoid these pitfalls?
Buying the wrong gear. Talk with the gym staff before purchasing outdoor gear that you aren’t familiar with.
Assuming you’ll figure it out when you get there. Especially roped climbing outdoors should be learned and practiced indoors before going outside without competent leader to try to figure it out
Not understanding the difference between indoor and outdoor holds. Real rock offers an unlimited amount of hand and foot holds that aren’t obvious like the brightly colored holds at indoor gyms. Beginners find it difficult to make smaller movements and to use intermediate holds to gain more obvious holds higher up.
Location Selection
Can you recommend some local climbing areas that are ideal for first-time outdoor climbers? What should they consider when choosing a route?
Q’emiln Park in Post Falls is a perfect spot for a beginner to get into outdoor climbing!
The grades are a bit soft, and the development is extensive and easy to understand.
The majority of the routes are in the intermediate to beginner ratings.
Routes are very heavily protected with closely-spaced bolts, yielding shorter lead falls.
Climbs are close to the parking lot and near medical services.
There is a welcoming and beginner-friendly atmosphere in the local climbing crowd. Other Spokane areas tend to be much harder to break into as a beginner.
Physical Preparation
What type of training or conditioning would you recommend to help indoor climbers prepare for the physical demands of outdoor climbing?
Lots of indoor climbing
Cardio several times a week
Yoga or other fitness classes
Eating a healthy diet
Mental Readiness
What mental strategies can climbers use to build confidence and overcome anxiety when climbing outdoors for the first time?
Practice going a little higher than you’re comfortable, indoors in a controlled environment.
Have redundancy in your anchor and protection setups, and go through checks multiple times and in the same way every time.
Practice on top-rope before getting into lead climbing.
Take falls climbing on lead indoors, so that you are familiar with how to fall.
Route Reading
How can indoor climbers develop better route reading and route finding skills for natural outdoor environments?
This comes with practice. Spend time on natural rock, and notice how the angles and pressure of your hands and feet hold you to the rock.
Spend time below the route, studying it, before you get off the ground.
Watch others climb outdoors.
Environmental Awareness
What are the most important environmental and ethical considerations climbers should keep in mind when climbing outdoors?
Leave No Trace ethics (respect your climbing area and leave it better than when you found it).
Be friendly and encouraging to others without being preachy or egotistical.
Accept that everyone is there to have a good climbing experience regardless of ability or knowledge.
Don’t “spray beta” without first asking if it’s wanted, but don’t be afraid to compassionately offer advice if someone is doing something dangerous.
Community and Resources
What local resources, groups, or workshops would you recommend to help climbers successfully transition from gym to outdoor climbing?
Coeur Climbing Co. Teams, Leagues, and classes (Gym to Crag class coming this summer!)
Social Media interest groups
Climber Partner boards— could be a physical bulletin board at a local gym, or an online platform such as a Facebook group where climbers can connect with others to find partners for climbing sessions.
We hope this helped you feel more empowered to climb outside! Get in touch with us with any questions you may have— our staff members are always happy to chat with you.
